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inspirational-trails-part-25-the-sandlings-suffolk

Trails & Inspiration

Inspirational Trails 25: The Sandlings, Suffolk

In part 25 of our Inspirational Trails series, Tom Fairbrother returns to his roots to run the Sandlings Trail in Suffolk.

The Sandlings trail, or to give it its official title, the Sandlings Walk, is a 60-mile lowland path running from the county town of Ipswich to the idyllic seaside town of Southwold, famous for its Adnams beer and sandy beaches.

As someone born and raised in Suffolk, the Sandlings is where I spent countless hours as a kid playing on the shingle beaches and riding my bike through the forests. As an adult, the trail has been the perfect training spot for long runs as part of marathon training, as well as those easy days where you need the peace and tranquillity of nature to soothe the soul and weary legs!

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The Sandlings has something for everyone. Okay, it doesn’t have mountains – this is sunny Suffolk after all, not Chamonix! But whether you want sea views, riverside paths, forest trails, or countryside scenery, all on runnable terrain, the Sandlings has you covered.

Back in the day, the Sandlings was a vast landscape covering a huge part of Suffolk, but over 90% of the heathland has been lost over the past 100 years. The great thing about heathland is it is sandy soil which drains really well, making it dry and firm underfoot and perfect for running all year round, even in road shoes.

You can navigate the route in either direction and it is fully waymarked, but most people tend to start their walk or run in Ipswich, which connects to London and Cambridge via train, and head east towards the coast. Personally, I would agree with that. The scenery in the second half of the Sandlings is breathtaking and what better way to celebrate than kicking back on Southwold beach with some fish and chips?

There are so many highlights along the route. Early on, having made your way through Martlesham Heath you join up with the River Deben, a river of international importance to birds.

The beautiful views join you for the next few miles along the flat path that takes you through Kyson Point to the market town of Woodbridge and then Melton. This is my hometown and I've run this 3-mile stretch hundreds of times, but it never gets old.

From the river you then re-enter pure heathland, typified by purple heather, gorse bushes, bracken and woodland - watch out for the snakes and adders in summer!

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You join Rendlesham Forest with miles and miles of atmospheric paths between the pines, and it’s a forest with a unique and interesting history: one of the UK’s most famous UFO incidents took place in the forest. Or did it? The truth is out there…

Once you’ve made your way through one forest you join up with another, this time Tunstall Forest, which is a mecca for mountain bikers. Just like Rendlesham, expect to feel tiny as you weave between the mighty pines towering overhead towards the village of Snape and the River Alde.

Snape Maltings is a world-famous music venue and every year some of the finest musicians descend on the sleepy Suffolk village. The Sandlings from Snape meanders through agriculture fields and rolling countryside, usually with plenty of pigs and sheep to avoid, before more gorgeous heathland to enjoy as you begin to smell the sea air that lies ahead of you.

Now you’ve made it this far, it’s time to finally get a glimpse of the North Sea and the coastline that will become your friend/enemy for the rest of the way. Once you reach Thorpeness and then Sizewell, the sea breeze will hit you like a slap in the face!

I said this route had a bit of everything, and just to encapsulate that you will then make your way past Sizewell nuclear power station! There are two distinct reactors that sit on the horizon, one a concrete structure and the other a quirky blue building with what looks like half a golf ball on top. There’s actually a parkrun that starts and finishes here in Sizewell for those who need their Saturday morning 5k fix.

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From Sizewell Beach you will see the waves crashing on the shingle and if you’re lucky, a nice southerly breeze at your back as you head north for the rest of the trail. Soak in the views as you trudge between the dunes to RSPB Minsmere, one of the UK’s best nature reserves.

All along the coast you’ll see lots of random concrete structures which highlight the area’s military past, from the unique Martello Towers built in Napoleon’s time, to pillboxes and sea defences which were installed to prevent an invasion during World War Two.

From Minsmere the Sandlings takes you back inland with more scenic heathland and forests until you reach Dunwich Heath, a stunning landscape of heather and woodland managed by the National Trust.

Often referred to as Britain's Atlantis, in the 11th century Dunwich was once one of the UK’s biggest towns. However, huge storms hit the town in the 14th century and the town was swallowed up by the sea. Only a handful of houses are still standing with the rest lying eerily underneath the waves.

Hopefully your legs are in slightly better shape and you’ll need them – we’ve still got plenty of running ahead to complete the Sandlings.

The trail takes you through more heathland and woodland and eventually you’ll reach the village of Walberswick, a truly idyllic sleepy spot that is a great place for crabbing to give you the full seaside experience.

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The end is in sight, literally, as you will now see the famous lighthouse ahead of you. Cross the footbridge over the River Blythe and congratulations, you are now in Southwold!

Soak in your victory lap with one final riverside path as the Blythe meets the North Sea. Southwold’s famous sandy beach and picturesque beach huts await. Stop your watch and go and order that 99 with a flake!

Overall, if you're looking for big climbs and technical descents, you will be disappointed. But if you want miles of interesting coastal trails, changing landscapes and lots of history, you need to explore the Sandlings.

All trail runners are searching for the perfect trail. Does it exist? For me it's impossible to say. The Sandlings will always be special to me because it's home.

Every trail is unique and each makes us feel something different. That's the beauty of trail running.

Photos: Credit to Tom Fairbrother

You can follow Tom Fairbrother’s adventures on TwitterInstagram or via his website.

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